Over the bridge into the funicular and up to the cathedral- September 23

Our tour officially began this afternoon. We met Jackie Dias our tour leader in the lobby of the Lodge and began our walk to the Cathedral.

Along the quay we did some additional stealth shopping before crossing the Dom Luís Bridge. This two tiered bridge spanning the Douro River, was built in 1886 by Teófile Seyrig, a partner of Gustave Eiffel. The upper level is for pedestrians and a light rail system while the lower level is for pedestrians and cars.

We were on the lower level but the views are spectacular from either tier.

A look back at the wine lodges surrounding our hotel.

Instead 0f walking up the steep hill, we took the funicular that goes up along the 14th century wall which once surrounded the old city.

Our group boarded together and waited until the car was crammed NY subway style full before taking off. For a couple of Euros, it was fun, interesting, easy on the knees, and gave us more views of the Douro behind us.

The original funicular, built in 1891, closed after a brief two year run which ended badly! The present one reopened in 2001.

Happily for us, in spite of meeting another car coming down as we went up, we made it into the tunnel and exited up a flight of stairs just around the corner from the Cathedral of Porto.

The present cathedral is known locally by various names, all honoring the Virgin Mary. Begun in the mid 12th century, its original Romanesque style has undergone numerous changes and additions over the years. It was been enlarged and embellished with both Baroque and Gothic features but to me the exterior looks as much like a fortress as it does a church. In 1387, it was the scene of the marriage of Philippa of Lancaster to King João.

Our local guide, Jorge, was waiting for us at the pillory, where in earlier times criminals were hanged.

We were given our pilgrim passports and our scallop shells signifying we were pilgrims to Santiago. It would be our responsibility to get two stamps each day of our pilgrimage if we wanted to receive the Compostela document at the end of our walk.

Before we went inside, we took a group shot in front of the Camino marker, showing the distance to Santiago. (248km) We will do half of that distance leaving from Tui.

Inside the Cathedral we paused in the cloister while Jorge explained the history of the blue and white tiles.

The tiles are called azulejos which means “smooth polished stone” in Arabic. First brought to Spain by the Moors in the 13th century, King Manuel I saw them in Seville and brought them to Portugal to decorate his palace. Today they can be seen all over Porto, from the walls of the train station to homes and street signs.

Inside the church, flying buttresses and granite columns support the barrel vaulted ceiling.

The High Altar is a masterpiece of gold. The sanctuary painted with murals and faux marble panels.

The silver altarpiece in the Resurrection Chapel was hidden behind a plaster wall for over a century to prevent Napoleons forces from stealing it when his troops invaded Porto in 1809. It seemed cleaner to me than when I last saw it. Any Altar Guild worth it’s salt would love to get a chance to polish it.

Our Lady of Vendôme is the Patron Saint of Porto. An army of French soldiers from Vendôme carried a stone statue of Our Lady with them into battle against the Moors. Following their victory, as an act of thanksgiving, the statue was given to the city whereupon she became it’s Patron Saint.

In addition to the seven tile panels in the cloister, two huge ones on the second floor terrace depict scenes from Ovid’s Metamorphoses and the Bible’s Song of Solomon.

Time ran out for us and we did not have time to visit the Sacristy, the Chapter Room and the Treasury of the Cathedral. Don’t miss them if you visit the Cathedral.